It's About Time Part II: South India and Farewell to India

Following our week in the high country we rendezvoused at the Bagdogra airport with the rest of the northern contingent where we then flew to Bangalore for our reunion with the entire tribe. The group was delighted to back together and share their mini adventures. There was really only one sour note and it came at the end of the week's travel. A group of 4 students had gone to Kerala and really enjoyed themselves. On the last night of their stay, some loathsome creature(s) broke into their rooms while they were sleeping and stole, among other things, their money, cameras, and field journals, but leaving their plane tickets and passports. Guess they wanted them out of town to minimize any investigation. Money can be replaced, but losing their pictures and personal journals was very sad. On the bright side, no one was hurt, and they slept through the whole thing.

BANGALORE

Bangalore is a big city. Not having been in Delhi for a while, it took a couple of auto rickshaw rides to really regain my wonder of Indian city traffic. As with almost all Indian cities we visited, getting around Bangalore was time consuming and a bit of a challenge. That said, we only had time for visits to a couple of places before heading out to Penukonda and the Young India Project NGO. One of those places was Mind Tree, a high-tech consulting firm. It reminded me of the campuses of high-tech companies I've seen in Silicon Valley and here in the Silicon Forest of the Pacific Northwest. Great time. They treated us as VIPs, heard several very good presentations two Mind Tree BMOCs and ate a quick but sumptuous lunch.

This visit was important because we wanted to focus on Indian development and environmental issues during our final month. We were curious how to reconcile the fact that millions of folks have profited from India's growing hi-tech industry while 1 billion or so remain in abject poverty. How can the growth of hi-tech benefit them? Does anyone really care? How do they get integrated into a developing country? And, can development (with all that implies) co-exist with (or perhaps even promote) India's staggering environmental concerns (clean drinking water, waste disposal, land use etc.) I thought our students asked some very thoughtful questions that got at these issues and we all came away with a number of things to consider.

While Aukeem and I were out and about dealing with issues related to his Australia trip Carol and the gang went to the Lalbagh Botanical Garden. From all accounts a big hit.

Below we are having dinner with Sharada, her son and his family, along with Allison on the 13th Floor of the Ebony restaurant in downtown Bangalore. As you can tell, it's a bit chilly.

PENUKONDA, BABBLER'S NEST RESORT AND THE YOUNG INDIA PROJECT

Penukonda is about 60 miles north of Bangalore. It's not a very big place but we didn't go there to see Penukonda. We came because about 15 miles outside Penukonda is the farm of Narinder and Sonja Bedi. Their place is called Babbler's Nest Resort and we spent a week there studying (in mind-boggling detail) the recently enacted National Rural Employment Guarantee Act (NREGA). The NREGA is a revolutionary piece of legislation. It "guarantees" to the countless millions of rural farm workers that each family can, under certain conditions, be given 100 days of work each year. Moreover, if their work on rural improvement projects meets specified criteria, they can earn up to 125 rupees per day. A few of our students struggled a bit with the pittance this seems (RS 125=about $3.00 or approximately $300 per year for a family). However, once we all understood that a) this was money they would not get otherwise; b) they could also work for land owners at other times; and c) they've never had guaranteed employment before and d) India is a poor country (again, we could not escape the comparisons between rural existence and the green green grass of Mind Tree).

Years ago Narinder and Sonja formed an NGO called Young India Project. Their sole mission now is to help rural farm workers unionize in order to get the full benefits of this law. Many Indian rural workers are illiterate and don't understand the full impact of the law. So far Narinder and his NGO have helped organize scores of unions in the area around Penukonda and thousands of farm workers. We were very fortunate to spend a week on their amazing farm (full of lots of Babblers and one can only imagine the number of Babbler's nests). We had an opportunity to visit two villages--one already organized, and one in the process of being organized. It was very inspiring. Since both Carol and I have spent time working to organize workers here, we were particularly moved by what we heard and saw.

The other special highlight was putting in a day's work on a project similar to the type worked on by local farm workers. Our students, armed with the same tools, and measured by the same standards as their Indian counterparts, labored away under the hot Andhra Pradesh sun and, over the course of 5-6 hours built a bund (water conservation trench). They thoroughly enjoyed the experience but were given a harsh lesson in Indian economics when the evaluation technician measured their work and told them that they earned an average of 50 rupees each (a bit over a dollar) for their efforts. It was, as one student said, a real kick in the bund.

Other highlights of the week included: a) several kick-ass games of cut-throat volley ball (made funner by the occasional downpours); b) press coverage of our visits (Narinder is quite a promoter and never missed an opportunity to get press coverage--we were in 6 newspaper articles and on several TV shows); c)learning and performing kolatum, or stick dancing. I'll just say that if this were a boxing match, the sticks would have won; and d) our trip to Puttaparthi, home of Sai Baba, the mangod (If you haven't heard about Sai Baba, you've got to Google him). Unfortunately none of our students were allowed inside his ashram because of dress codes (never figured that one out). And, as it turns out, Puttaparthi was the scene of one of the most fortunate things that happened to me on the entire trip. Ulrika and I were standing on a street corner prattling on about the meaning of life when I felt liquid spray on my head and shoulders. Thinking someone had a hose and was having some fun with me, I turned to see a crowd of young men laughing and pointing to a branch high on the tree we were under. Looking up I saw the culprit--a large and now relieved miscreant monkey who had showered me with what they referred to as "monkey water." I didn't think it was quite as funny as they did, but they assured me it was great because monkey water brought good fortune (confirmed by other Indians who soberly vouched that I was, indeed, one lucky dude). Rika also thought it was a hoot but we both agreed that it was interesting that the monkey peed on me and nary a drop touched her--guess she'll have to consider whether that was her good fortune or not when I win the lottery.

Below: We visited a nearby villages to learn more about efforts to unionize rural workers. Narender talks to union members. Later we get a chance to talk to them and tour the village. Very beautiful generous people. They were fascinated with us and we were blown away by their friendliness and hospitality

Lindsey and her new best friend

Carol and I take a break from enjoying the Lapakashi Temple while (in the second picture below) Alex reflects on the mysteries of life. Afterwards we had a picnic lunch (constantly shooing away miscreant monkeys) and then on to Puttaparthi and my date with the mother of all the miscreants.

The students put their backs into an honest days work for an honest days 50 rupees

A visit to the village of Guttar and the Handwork Center

Below: This baby is 20 minutes old when we took the picture--that's right, 20 minutes

Below: Hannah works her magic on several adoring children in the village

Below: We had a meeting with the District Water Management Agency and various functionaries involved in the administration of the NREGA. Narinder asked Aukeem and Ava to represent the group

Kolatam practice. Stick dancing or stick fighting? Watching our instructors argue about how to do the various dances was both frustrating and very funny

THE BR HILLS AND DR. H. SUDARSHAN'S NGO VGKK

Not everything can be a highlight--but this definitely was. Our all-too brief visit to the VGKK (google if you really want to know what those letters stand for and learn more about the work of Dr. Sudarshan) was another experience most students were exceptionally positive about.

We drove by bus to the BR Hills after returning by train to Bangalore from Babbler's Nest. It was a long day and we didn't reach the NGO's facilities until late in the afternoon. By the time we had chai and a meeting with Dr. Sudarshan it was getting dark. Our first night didn't get off to a good start--there weren't enough rooms for everyone, of the the ones we were given many had damp mattresses and damp bedding (or no bedding at all) and in some the toilets didn't work. We struggled in the dark as rain began to fall to find rooms and beds for all of us (including me, Carol and Sharada).

Not an auspicious beginning. So, it may seem surprising the visit earned such high marks. The fact that it did is, I believe, instructive about India, Sudarshan's work and about the quality of our students.

First off, anyone who expects things to happen as planned in India is living on the other side of the cartoon screen.

Second, the work of Dr. Sudarshan is so remarkable that a chance to meet him and see the fruits of his nearly 30 years of labor is worth a little mold in your knickers. Sudarshan has modeled his life after Dr. Albert Schweitzer in terms of sacrifice and service. He has enormous medical and administrative skills and has dedicated his best efforts and resources to the tribal people of the BR Hills.

Finally, I simply can't begin to tell you what a grand group Carol and I were privileged to have lived and worked with. They certainly didn't enjoy damp bedding and scrambling for a potty, but they never complained (OK, maybe once or twice)--about this or any other inconvenience. They faced challenges as opportunities and difficulties with a determination to learn and grow. Also, they demonstrated a remarkable empathy for those we were visiting. The rooms our students were sleeping in for two nights were the rooms these young Indian students slept in every night. We were sojourners--strangers in a strange land-- passing through India as part of our attempt to become more knowledgeable, productive and caring humans. We all knew that at the end of the trip we'd be coming home and our mattresses wouldn't be damp. But we also knew that the reason for these conditions had nothing to do with a lack of love for the students, but a lack of resources to make their lives more comfortable. Our students never seemed to forget that most Indians live in very primitive conditions compared to ours and they were moved and humbled by that knowledge. I know this may all sound a bit rhetorical and cliched, but having a month to reflect has only increased my respect and admiration for this outstanding group of young people. That's why we came and that's why, in this case, the candle was worth so much more than the flame.

While we were there we visited a class of young women being trained as nurses and mid-wives; we sat in on two classes of younger students (in the English class, Carol was asked to explain the cause of the Columbia shuttle disaster and mesmerized the class); we toured his hospital; and we ate in the dining hall with several hundred students--on the floor, with banana leaves as plates, while eating rice and soupy Dal with our fingers--yummy. We also spent a morning at a nearby tribal village where we toured their coffee farm and discussed ways they try to farm in harmony with the natural environment. Later that evening we enjoyed a bonfire with the faculty, staff and students listening to tribal music. Then, without any prior notice, we were invited to share our tribal songs, so we presented our own improvised program of Christmas carols, summer camp songs and an Emmy-quality rendition of The Band's "Take A Load Off Fanny" featuring Thomas Guitar Elvrum and the No Problem Singers.

Damp beds, non-functioning toilets, soupy dal--no problem!

Helen, sitting next to Richie, enjoyed soupy dal so much (we had it quite often--we also had a lot of dal that wasn't soupy) she penned her composition "No More Soupy Dal" and then sang it the farewell dinner. A crowd fav.

MYSORE

After leaving the BR Hills we traveled to Mysore where we stayed for a couple of nights at the Sandesh The Prince Hotel. We stayed at several very nice hotels during our stay in India (Agra, Rishikish and Lucknow), but Sandesh The Prince was the run-away winner. Damp mattresses were forgotten within minutes and everyone had a ball in Mysore: archeological site visits (great lecture and guided tour by Prof. Rangaraju ), temples (Carol below outside the temple of Somnathpur) and a guided tour of the mind-boggling Mararaja's Palace. I personally liked Mysore much more than Bangalore, and apparently so do thousands of Indians who are moving their each year from Bangalore.

THE COORG DISTRICT

We traveled to the Coorg district for a stop at the Forestry College at Pannampet before heading on to the Nagarhole National Park and Wildlife Sanctuary. As I wrote above, our theme in South India was development and the environment and we wanted to hear about how India was dealing with it's forests (India has a LOT of forest land). Our students were interested in sustainable practices, logging, use of pesticides, agricultural uses of the forest lands, and where they could get their hands on some good coffee beans. The Coorg area is situated very well to grow coffee since their coffee is shade grown and fits in nicely with the use and conservation of the forest lands. Our hosts at the college (faculty and students) met with us for about two hours answering our questions and asking their own (since we know a thing or two about forests here in great Pacific Northwest). Suddenly we were invaded by a fairly large group of school children who had heard we were coming and invited themselves to the meeting to practice their English and ask their own questions. "What is your national/state flower ?" "What flowers do you use in your dances? "What is your favorite bird and what color is it?" "Would you like to buy some very fresh coffee beans?"

They, of course, were terminally cute and wanted as much face time with us as they could get. We, in the meantime, were terminally hungry and had a bus to catch to Nagarhole. We also did not know that the Dean who had been our host was a member of the local Rotary Club and had arranged for us to have lunch with them in nearby Gonikoppal. So much for an early arrival at the wildlife sanctuary and so much for once more daring to think anything goes as planned in India. All in all, we learned a great deal at the college, dug the kids and had a very good meal at the Rotary Club (no soupy dal this time). And we got to Nagarhole before dark.

NAGRAHOLE NATIONAL PARK AND WILDLIFE

Because of our interest in studying the environment, we wanted to see this place while we were in the south. We stayed at a place called the Jungle Inn. We liked the Jungle Inn but did not really find the Park that user-friendly. It was about an hour's bus ride to the Park Center where we then boarded a fairly standard tour bus--thankfully sans loudspeaker guide talk. The tour was predictably uneventful in terms of seeing exotic animals (tigers, strangely enough, aren't attracted to the noise of large buses). We saw lots of Barking Deer and a couple of elephants but little else. It did, however, satisfy our curiosity about the Park system and gave us an opportunity to see bona fide stick dancers from a local tribe. The bonfire and stick dance were a bit touristy, but since we considered ourselves stick dance pros, we joined in the dance and turned it into a hoe-down. When in Rome, etc.

THE FAREWELL DINNER

Following Nagarhole we again scattered to the four winds for the second week of independent travel. Carol and I decided to go to Goa, a former Portuguese colony, and home of world famous beaches. I had quite a few papers to grade and Carol just wanted time away from her best friend--the dreaded Day Book. I need to introduce Larry Meyers, whom I should have mentioned earlier. Larry is the Director of the Lewis and Clark College Overseas Program. If Larry could schedule a sound academic program on the moon, and find someone to lead it, he would. His commitment to international education is exceeded only by his Mexican cooking. He is a great program director to work with since he trusts his leaders and gives them great freedom to design programs and lead them with absolutely no interference. Each program has a budget and each group of leaders is entrusted with funds to ensure the needs of the students are met and local expenses are covered. However, those expenditures need to be accounted for. Hence the Day Book. Carol assumed the responsibility for the budget--paying hospital and health costs (for which the college is reimbursed through student health insurance plans); seeing students had enough money for meals, transportation, academic expenses etc., paying for lodging, and on and on. To get that money she had to cash travelers checks from time to time and record each transaction along with records for each expenditure. Those daily transactions were entered in the Day Book (on a computer) and then allocated in separate spreadsheets to various line items. Safeguarding the money, allocating it appropriately, responding to emergencies, and trying to figure out why, for example, we were supposed to have 300,000 RS when in fact we had 350,000RS (or 250,000) was the kind of thing that kept her wired. She also had to translate US greenbacks in to Rupees and the exchange rate was never the same when she cashed travelers checks. She did an absolutely amazing job, but it was a bit onerous and stressful at times. She wanted to go to Goa and not have to do the Day Book for a week. Mission accomplished. Goa was worth goaing to. Sandy beaches, copious amounts of Vitamin D (at no extra charge) , bathwater warm water. Ahh, long romantic walks at sunrise and sunset. I could goa on and on, but I don't think I should goa there.

We all re-coagulated in Delhi on December 1 for our final 4 nights in India. The academic agenda included two days of student presentations on the independent projects they completed in Varanasi. Each student had submitted their written work to me before they left Varanasi but I wanted the rest of the group to hear what they had done, and since I teach public speaking as part of my teaching and training work, I think everyone needs to be able to speak clearly and confidently in front of groups. Well, let me tell you folks, these young scholars blew my socks off with their presentations. Absolutely stellar work!

The social agenda included a dinner at Sharadaji's place and getting our group t-shirts. The group had decided the front would say "Group No Problem" and the back would list all the places where we'd spent at least one night. The main event, however, was our farewell dinner on December 4, the night before we officially ended the program. In her usual display of excellence, Sharada had booked a very nice room at the India International Center and arranged for a great buffet (with no soupy dal). People decked out in their finest available clothing and we had at it. Greg and Emily L did a stingingly clever, thoughtful and outrageously funny roast of everyone ( I thought there were pretty soft on me--but then again, I hadn't yet finished grading, hmmm). Helen sang her No More Soupy Dal song and we just generally bathed in our mutual affection and respect.

The irrepressible duo: Leah and Kiran

Rika is my favorite Swede in the whole world and one of my very favorite people period. This might be a good time to mention that we had five international students on our trip, which, I've subsequently been told, is the largest number ever to go on one of our overseas program. The others were Keletso from Botswana, Toni from Finland, Rosie from Costa Rica and Sara (her mom is from Saudi Arabia and her dad from Finland)

The most remarkable woman in the world sandwiched between two people who just absolutely love her to death. What would we ever have done without you dearest Sharada?

With the lovely and multi-talented Helen (from Ohio)

Greg is funny, smart and just a bit crazy. A perfect fit for India

Emily L (the "L" is for lovely). Such a treasure.



A FEW PARTING THOUGHTS

The people we met and worked with most closely were among the finest we've ever met. Sunil is a true gentleman and scholar. His knowledge, compassion and ability to communicate are without peer. He is also fortunate to be married to the kind, articulate, passionate and lovely Anjili. Also, we now count Nita and Irfana among our friends and comrades in arms. Nita is a very wise and dedicated person who has created an educational oasis in middle of the educational desert that is Banaras. Irfana is so cool it's not even funny. I think I saw her lose her temper once but then I don't quite get Indian humor and it may have been irony--I'll have to pursue that.

Finally, we feel deeply in love with the unstoppable Sharada Nayak. We had lunch last week with Dell and Helen Smith (who've led TWO trips to India) and we all agreed that Sharada is the kind of person you read or hear about from time to time who sounds too good to be true--but in Sharada's case, it's true! She has led the most fascinating life and has such keen instincts and insights. She seemingly knows everyone in India and lives at the center of a vast and swirling universe of social, political, educational and cultural groups and never, ever is far from her cell phone (which has the funkiest ringtone any of us had ever heard). Her smile could charm a cobra and her laugh still makes me giggle. She loves gin and tonics and could probably drink the whole group under the table. She never forgets important dates and will spend time in her very busy schedule to make sure someone gets the perfect gift. I think she is (or should be) a Hindu goddess--at least she is to us.

Before we left, Carol and I talked a lot about what we wanted to get out of the trip. We decided our first priority was the health and safety of our students. The health issue got a bit dicey in Varanasi and one student in particular had an on-going health issue that still needs to be addressed--but he soldiered on and completed all his work with excellent results! I made a special point to count students' fingers and toes when we left and it added up to the same number we started with--so I guess we get our bonus. Secondly, we wanted to be facilitators--removing obstacles and hopefully making it easier for the students to accomplish their personal and academic goals. Thirdly, we wanted to do what ever we could do ensure this experience would be one they would remember when they're our age, as one of the highlights of their lives. Finally, we wanted to have fun and we wanted to learn and grow ourselves. We believe living and learning can and should be fun. We love being around young people and we are so grateful to all of them for allowing us to join them in the heartache and hilarity that is India.

This is our good friend Harish. The picture was taken as we left for the Delhi Airport for a 10 day trip to Thailand before heading back to the U.S. He is the guardian angel of Golf Links # 59 where Carol and I lived during our two stays in Delhi. He is a man of great dignity and kindness. He lives in Delhi to support his wife and three children who live in a village some distance from the city. He sees them only occasionally. Take care Harish. George and Carol Austin

The Endia